Fried Squash

If you have a garden, and like me, thought back in the spring that a single little squash plant would be a great thing to plant, then you are also probably finding yourself swamped with more of the little things than you can cook. I’m pulling out about 1-2 per day at this point, and they’re piling up. It’s almost enough to drive me to that age-old trick of slipping them into open windows at the coop parking lot…

Thankfully, Bartolomeo Scappi is here to (literally) spice up our squash:

This 1570 recipe is fairly simple: fry the squash and season with spices. But the resulting concoction is one of the most flavorful presentations of squash I’ve found yet. I’m not a big fan of fennel, or anything especially anise-like, but fennel pollen has been a revelation. It’s a popular ingredient in Scappi, so I decided after the last paycheck to splurge and get some.

I say splurge because the stuff is pricey, but so little of it packs a big amount of flavor that I think it’s probably worth it in the end. Combine it with a little garlic, salt, and vinegar, and you’re in serious business. The squash softens as it cooks, while the almost tempura thin coating on the outside crisps up. I put no more spice on than you see in the photo above, yet the flavors were definitely present. After just one batch, I knew this was a keeper. Give it a go, and tell me what you think!

Scappi’s Fried Squash Recipe

Cook’s/Gardener’s Notes: it turns out that harvesting one’s own fennel pollen isn’t that hard; I’ll be planting some next year for sure. You can also harvest dill pollen, another mega flavor powerhouse!

Ingredients:

2 Tbs. salt, plus another pinch for sprinkling
1 yellow squash
1 cup rice flour
~1 cup olive oil, for frying
pinch of fennel pollen
pinch of garlic powder

Slice the squash into discs about 1/4″ thick. Put these in a large bowl and salt liberally, tossing around to salt both sides of the slices- this will draw out excess moisture from the veggies. After about 15 minutes, press any remaining liquid from the squash. Toss the slices in rice flour until coated. Pour the olive oil into a shallow saucepan and bring up to medium heat. Gently lower the floured squash slices into the hot oil. Let each side fry for around 3-5 minutes, or until a light golden color. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.

Elderflower Fritters

Thoughts:

Elderflowers are one of those fantastic yet often overlooked ingredient. They are far less popular in America than in Britain, where they the flowers are used culinarily and to make cordials, while the berries are incorporated into a wild array of recipes. The fritters seem to fit very well with the Reach, and Highgarden, where they have such bumper crops of fruits that they wouldn’t need to worry about nipping the berry crop in the bud.

I’m lucky enough this year to have my own elderflower bush, so of course I knew I would have to make something from it. I’ve battled a variety of insects throughout the spring to safeguard my crop, and the blossoms are right at their peak. I recalled a recipe I’d seen in the Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi, one of my favorite historical cookbooks, for elderflower fritters. Done, and done.

The modern versions are aesthetically much prettier, in part because they keep their original shape, which is pretty photogenic. The batter is a variation on the one I used for the Apple Crisps, making a fritter that is light and crispy. The flavor is just slightly floral, and not unpleasant, even to one who doesn’t usually like floral-flavored things *guiltily raises hand*, while the sugar on top gives it a great little crunch.

The medieval version, I’m sorry to say, was a total flop. Granted, I tried to make them for the first time in a terrible hurry the day before leaving home for an overseas wedding, so the deck was somewhat stacked against them. But I’d been keen to try them since first reading the recipe. That recipe instructs one to scoop balls of the mixture into hot butter or lard, which leads to the first two problems: 1. the batter was far from scoopable, and 2. butter burns pretty easily, even when clarified. By the end, I didn’t have a single medieval fritter that was edible, but I could sense the hint of what they should have been. I’ll give it another try next year, or perhaps with dried elderflowers in the off-season.

Modern Elderflower Fritters

Cook’s Note: Bonus Points if you can get a hold of an elderflower cider, such as Angry Orchard makes! Also, try using smaller clusters of flowers for easier frying and eating.

Ingredients:

1/2 bottle sparkling hard cider (6 fl. oz)
pinch of dry yeast
pinch of salt
zest of 1/2 lemon or orange
1 cup flour
6 elderflower blossom clusters, or more, as desired
oil for frying (I used canola)
sugar, for sprinkling

Mix together all ingredients except the elderflowers and oil, tweaking as necessary, until you have a nice runny batter. Bring the oil up to a nice medium heat. Gently dip a cluster of elderflowers into the batter, holding the stem upright. You can wiggle it around until all the blossoms are covered. Let any excess batter drip off, then carefully lower the battered flower into the hot oil. You should be able to cook each fritter almost entirely on this side, although you may find flipping it to finish the top side is helpful. When the fritters are golden brown, remove to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with some sugar, and enjoy!

Medieval Elderflower Fritters

Cook’s Notes: This recipe was a flop for me. I’ve included the list of ingredients in case you’d like to give it a go yourself! The instructions can be found on Google Books… I’d love to hear how yours turns out!

Ingredients:

1 lb. creamy cheese
1 lb. ricotta
3 oz. breadcrumbs
4 oz. sugar
6 eggs
3 oz. elderflower, soaked in milk
flour

Reader-created – Stuffed Mushrooms

Thoughts:

A while back I asked followers on Facebook to take a look at the compilation of food words from the Song of Ice and Fire series, and construct their own plausible Westerosi dish. Everyone then voted on their favorites, and there were two clear winners: Rita’s “Spiced Orange & Saffron Cakes bathed in sweet wine syrup and served with a refreshing lemon cream” and Ann’s “Roasted mushrooms stuffed with Caramelized onions, sausage, goat cheese and nuts” As promised, I’ve taken a crack at turning those descriptions into real dishes. First up is the stuffed mushroom recipe… It was declared in the kitchen by Mr. Innkeep (who can be horribly honest-to-a-fault), that these were possibly the best stuffed mushrooms he’d ever had. Not entirely believing him, despite all prior experience with his truthfulness, I popped a small one in my mouth to test it myself. He was right. They’re wonderful. The texture is mostly soft, with the occasional crunch of a bit of nut. The goat cheese’s tanginess is a flavorful counterpart to the buttery sausage and mushroom elements. A tinge of bitterness from the remaining beer is not a bad thing because the sweetness of the onions is there to balance it. So many complimentary ingredients come together to create this delicious snack that is gone far too quickly after coming out of the oven. My only remaining question: Where in Westeros do you think we would find this dish? I feel it belongs somewhere with forests, but it would be fun to see it someplace from which we’ve gotten little or no food descriptions, like the Stormlands, or somewhere in the Westerlands. Thoughts? Also, I’ll be recapping this fun experiment, so take a look at that word-cloud, and save up some great suggestions!

Recipe for Ann’s “Roasted Mushrooms stuffed with Caramelized Onions, Sausage, Goat Cheese and Nuts”

Ingredients:

16 oz. button mushrooms
~1/2 cup sausage meat (haggis also makes for phenomenal stuffed mushrooms)
1-2 shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
~ 1/2 cup ale
2 Tbs. butter
4 oz. goat cheese, plus a little extra for garnish
1/4 cup coarsely chopped nuts (I prefer walnuts for this recipe)
hearty pinch of smoked salt
1-2 tsp. chopped parsley

Start by removing the stems of the mushrooms and setting them aside. Place the mushroom caps on a lightly greased baking sheet, and chop the stems finely. In a skillet, cook the sausage over medium heat until it’s browned and crumbly. Scoop the cooked sausage out and place in a bowl, leaving the grease in the pan. Turn the heat down to low, then add to the pan the shallots and garlic and let them cook in the oil. )If you are working with lean sausage, add a bit of the butter early.) When the onions are soft and a nice dark brown, pour in the ale. Let this mostly cook off, around 5 minutes, then add the butter and the chopped mushroom stems. Cook for another few minutes, then remove from heat and add the remaining ingredients, stirring to combine. Gently spoon this mixture into the mushroom caps, pressing into each and heaping it up in the middle. Bake for about 15-20 minutes at 350F, and allow to cool slightly before devouring.

Elk Meatballs stuffed with Blue Cheese

“Roundels of elk stuffed with ripe blue cheese were being brought out when one of Lord Rowan’s knights stabbed a Dornishman. The gold cloaks dragged them both away, one to a cell to rot and the other to get sewn up by Maester Ballabar.” –A Storm of Swords

Thoughts:

This recipe has been on my to-make list for quite some time, pending only the acquisition of some elk meat. I had originally imagined them as small elk tenderloins, but despite a long search, could only track down ground elk meat locally. So I thought, “How can I stuff them with blue cheese?” And then inspiration struck: meatballs stuffed with cheese. It’s only a little stretch. :)

These are awesome. As they bake, the kitchen gradually fills with this wonderful meaty smell that heightens the anticipation of finally tasting the finished meatballs. They’re roughly two-bite morsels; the first bite reveals a center of melted cheese, the flavors of which meld incredibly well with the gaminess of the elk. I’d planned to serve mine with a sauce, but every last one was eaten before I could produce any… Maybe next time!

Recipe for Elk Meatballs with Blue Cheese

Makes about a dozen small meatballs

Cook’s Notes: Can’t find Elk? Venison, Bison, and Lamb would all work well with this recipe!

Ingredients:

1 lb. ground elk
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
hefty pinch each of salt and pepper
~4 oz. block blue cheese, cut into 1/2” cubes

Preheat the oven to 400F. Mix together the first four ingredients, taking care that it is evenly combined. Pinch off a little of this mixture and form around a cube of blue cheese, working to seal the edges. Roll into a ball, and set aside.

Place the meatballs on a cooling rack on top of a cookie sheet with raised edges (to catch the grease). Bake for around 16 minutes, or until cooked through and the cheese is melty. Allow to cool slightly, then serve and enjoy!

Braised Apples with Cheese

“The last course was goat cheese served with baked apples. The scent of cinnamon filled the hall as Osney Kettleblack slipped in to kneel once more between them.” – A Clash of Kings

Thoughts:

This dish comes via reader Vinz, who suggested this recipe for the snippet from the book almost a year ago. I had always imagined them as whole baked apples, like the two recipes that went into the cookbook, and had pretty much written off the quote.

I am so glad to have tried this new version.

The apples cook until just tender, while the juices and butter combine to make that gooey, drippy, awesome sauce you see in the photo. Crunch of nuts, tang of goat cheese, bite of spices. I used walnuts, and some long pepper, which has a sharper but faster taste than ordinary black pepper.

The recipe technically makes enough for two, but I will admit to eating it all myself in a single sitting. It was awesome. I have no regrets.

Braised Apples with Goat Cheese

Time: ~20 minutes Serves: 1+

Ingredients:

2 apples, cored and sliced into eighths
2 Tbs. salted butter
1 1/2 cup cider
4 oz. goat cheese
2 Tbs. honey
currants, nuts, etc. for topping
pinch each cinnamon, ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 375F.

Melt the butter in a skillet or frying pan and saute the apple slices, flipping them so they are coated with butter. Do this for 2-3 minutes, then pour over 1 cup of the cider. Simmer gently, stopping just shy of the apples going mushy. When they still have some body to them, scoop out the slices and place on a baking sheet, preferably lined with a silicone pad or parchment paper.

Sprinkle goat cheese over top, and place in the oven until the cheese starts to melt. While the apples are cooking, add the honey, remaining cider, nuts/dried fruits, and spices to the pan. Reduce down until the sauce starts to thicken, then remove from heat. When the apples come out, arrange them in serving dishes and spoon the sauce over. Sprinkle with a dash of extra cinnamon, and devour.

Oaten Stuffing

Thoughts:

This recipe is a wonderful stuffing that is equally good out of a bird as in it. The oats provide a lovely texture that is at times both crunchy and soft, while the seasonings and stock deepen the flavor. The currants round out the experience, offering a tiny fruity burst in nearly every bite that is countered by small bits of bacon. Can one really ever go wrong with bacon? The simple substitution of wheat bread for something without gluten makes for a great gluten-free stuffing that won’t disappoint.

And while it might seem odd to post a recipe for just stuffing, never fear- This is just gearing up toward the next post, which is a real show stopper!

Oaty Stuffing Recipe

Soaking: 30 minutes Prep: 10 minutes Cooking: 30-40 minutes

Cook’s note: for a Gluten Free version, just substitute the regular bread for a GF version. Also, I’ve never been a fan of celery, but feel free to add that, subtract currants, and otherwise tweak the recipe as you see fit!

Ingredients:

2 cups steel cut oats, soaked and drained
3 or so strips of bacon
3 Tbs. butter
1 onion, diced small
1 chopped apple
1/4 cup dried currants
1 tbsp fresh chopped parsley
1/2 tsp dried thyme
2 slices bread, torn into small pieces
1/2 cup chicken or beef stock

Set your oats in a bowl of warm water to soak for at least 30 minutes, until somewhat softened.

Fry the bacon in a skillet until crispy, then move to a paper towel to drain. When it’s cooled, crumble into small pieces. Drain most of the fat off the skillet, then melt your butter. Add the onion, apple, currants, and garlic. Stir around until the onions are soft and translucent. Turn down the heat, and add the herbs, followed by the stock. Stir for a minute, then remove from heat and stir in the bread, bacon, and drained oats.

Use to stuff a chicken or roast, or just cook on its own at 350F for around 30 minutes, stirring to avoid any overly crispy bits.

Boiled Beans

Beans Yfryed

“‘You want eat?’ Mord asked, glowering. He had a plate of boiled beans in one thick, stub-fingered hand. Tyrion Lannister was starved, but he refused to let this brute see him cringe. ‘A leg of lamb would be pleasant,’ he said, from the heap of soiled straw in the corner of his cell. ‘Perhaps a dish of peas and onions, some fresh baked bread with butter, and a flagon of mulled wine to wash it down. Or beer, if that’s easier. I try not to be overly particular.'” -A Game of Thrones

Modern Boiled Beans

Thoughts:

Yes, I know. It’s been MONTHS since my last recipes, and now I show up with… beans? I’ve felt my own absence from the blogs keenly, and was delighted to get back into the kitchen this week. With a working oven, and a fully charged camera, I feel suddenly like I can make ALL of the things; As I type this, I have two new recipes in the oven. In the meantime…

The medieval beans are appropriately bland, and a good fit for the scene from the book. The onion flavor is there, and hugely amped up because the beans absorbed the oniony goodness during the boiling process. The garlic, while wonderful, isn’t quite enough to combat the almost overpowering onion. I soaked my beans overnight, but wait as I might, they never “bersten”, so I boiled them. The boiling wasn’t in the historical recipe, but because that’s what they’re supposed to be in the book, I felt this was a good compromise. I sprinkled a little salt over top; the poudre douce was interesting, but didn’t do the dish any favors. I had hoped to make a kind of bean mash out of the ingredients, then sort of fry them like patties, but the mixture was too wet to hold together. Still, with some binder ingredients, that might be a neat way to try it in the future.

The modern beans are universally much easier to like. Boiling them in soda makes them sweet, since they soak up all the flavor and sugars of the rootbeer. That sweetness contrasts really nicely with the smoky, saltiness of the bacon. The parsley is just there for show, but adds little pops of green color to the bowl. It’s an earthy, dense side dish, ideal alongside a big piece of meat. I’d probably like a little more sauce with this version- not quite like Boston baked beans, but it’s a tad dry as is. Next time, I’d add some crushed tomatoes, a little molasses, and stir until I was happy with it.

Overall, I found the medieval recipe more authentic to the scene in the book, but the modern version definitely tastier.

Medieval Boiled (and Fried!) Beans

Benes yfryed. Take benes and seeþ hem almost til þey bersten. Take and wryng out þe water clene. Do þerto oynouns ysode and ymynced, and garlec þerwith; frye hem in oile oþer in grece, & do þereto powdour douce, & serue it forth. –The Form of Curye, 14th century Cook’s note: I used a type of locally grown dry bean for this, but can’t for the life of me remember what variety it was. I’d wager that pretty much any kind of dry bean would work for this recipe. I love using roasted garlic, but regular garlic is fine. INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 cups dry beans
1/2 onion, peeled and minced
3 cloves roasted garlic (see below)
olive oil
Powder douce or salt

Soak the beans overnight, or at least 8 hours, until they look like they are starting to burst. Boil the beans and the minced onion in a medium saucepot. Add garlic, then fry them in oil or grease. Sprinkle with a little poudre douce, and serve! To roast Garlic: Preheat oven to 400F. Slice the tops off an entire head of garlic, and drizzle with olive oil. Wrap in tin foil and roast for around 35 minutes, or until the garlic starts to feel soft. Remove and allow to cool. You should be able to squeeze the cloves out of their papery shell, or fish them out with a fork. Nibble on a few, savor them over toast, and store the rest in the fridge, covered with olive oil. You’re welcome. :)

Modern Boiled Beans

3 cups root beer (approximately 20 oz.)
1 1/2 cups dry white beans
3 cups water, plus more as needed
3+ strips bacon, fried and crumbled/chopped
2 Tbs. chopped parsley

Soak beans overnight in water or 8 hours, until they look softer and are starting to burst open. Rinse them and put in a pot along with the rootbeer and water. Rinse well and put in a stock pot together with rootbeer and water. Boil for 1 hour, then turn down to a simmer for another 30 minutes. If at any point during this process, it seems like there’s not enough liquid, add more water. After the time is up, the beans are soft, and the level of water is mostly depleted, turn down the temperature further and add the bacon and parsley. Stir to combine, then remove from heat and serve hot.

Turnip Greens, Fennel, & Sweetgrass Salad

“She stared at the supper set before her: trout wrapped in bacon, salad of turnip greens and red fennel and sweetgrass, pease and onions and hot bread.” -A Clash of Kings

Catelyn’s Salad – turnip greens, fennel, apple, lemongrass, walnuts, and raisins

Thoughts:

Let me start by saying that I don’t especially care for fennel, or any of the flavors on the anise/licorice spectrum. However, when combined with the other ingredients in this salad, especially the apples, even I found it bright and refreshing. The crunch of combined fennel and apple, along with the walnuts, counters the sort of ordinary salad element of the turnip greens. Overall, it’s on the sweeter side, from the fruits and balsamic, and a really nice, unique salad for summer.

Catelyn’s Salad

Cook’s notes: as with all salads, feel free to meddle and mix to suit your tastes. Turnip greens can be difficult to find, so baby spinach is a good substitute.

Ingredients:

2 cups turnip greens
1/2 cup fennel, julienned
1 Tbs. lemongrass, sliced very thinly
1/2 apple, julienned
1/4 cup golden raisins
fennel tops
1/4 cup walnuts (candied is even better!)
balsamic for dressing
edible flowers (optional)

Combine the all ingredients except the dressing and edible flowers, and toss to combine. Drizzle with balsamic, and sprinkle with flowers, if using. Enjoy!

Salad of turnip greens, fennel, apple, lemongrass, walnuts, and raisins

closeup of Catelyn’s Salad

Teff Porridge with honey and dates

“Beneath them, the plain stretched out immense and empty, a vast flat expanse that reached to the distant horizon and beyond. It was a sea, Dany thought. Past here, there were not hills, no mountains, no trees nor cities nor roads, only the endless grasses, the tall blades rippling like waves when the winds blew…” -A Game of Thrones

Teff Porridge with Dates

Thoughts:

This recipe comes courtesy of a suggestion by blog fan and reader Jessette. I’d seen teff for sale, but hadn’t the faintest idea what to do with it. Now, I’m eager to experiment. The seeds are tiny, even smaller than chia seeds, but they cook like millet or quinoa, but faster. It’s an ancient grain, dating back to at least 1,000 BCE, making it an ideal candidate for the continent of Essos.

Teff porridge is like a quirky, earthier version of breakfast oatmeal. The grains don’t break down completely, leaving tiny *pops* of texture. The dried dates match the darkness of the teff, and the honey-sweetness ties the whole thing together. I was instantly smitten by the tasty uniqueness of this morning breakfast alternative.

Proposed Location?

The Dothraki Plains, hands down. Teff comes from a type of African grass, which seems to particularly invoke images of the Dothraki Sea. One taster suggested that it would also make an excellent stuffing. I imagine the Dothraki women or slaves hunting rabbits and birds as they traveled, and using teff as a nutritious stuffing.

Recipe for Teff Porridge

Cook’s Notes: Teff porridge, as made by the Dothraki, could include any ingredients they had plundered from their enemies or gathered on the plains. Get creative!

Ingredients:

1 cup whole teff grain – not the flour
3 cups boiling water
1 tbsp butter
½ tsp ground cinnamon
pinch of ground cloves
1/2 cup chopped dried fruit, such as dates or raisins
¼ tsp sea salt
¼ cup honey, plus extra for serving

Pour the teff into a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, and toast gently for 3-5 minutes until it gives off a nice, nutty smell.

Add the butter, boiling water, and spices. Increase heat to a simmer and stir occasionally to keep the porridge cooking evenly. After 10 minutes, add the chopped dates, salt, and honey. Continue to cook for an additional 5-10 minutes, adding extra water if needed, until the porridge is cooked through to your liking.

Scoop into serving bowls, and garnish with extra honey and dates. Enjoy!

Teff Grains

Sweet & Spicy Wings

Sweet and Spicy Wings/legs

Thoughts:

Although I still have a few dishes from the books to make and post, I occasionally like to change things up and include something new. This recipe is great because it is a familiar modern-world food, but with a slight unusual twist such that it could easily be included in a Westerosi party lineup. The recipe is also straightforward enough that it can be sized up for a larger group.

Proposed Location?

ot from the books, this recipe could definitely find a place across the Narrow Sea. The flavor profile of the rub is reminiscent of North Africa, both sweet and spicy. I imagine them being a kind of street food in Essos, where the trade routes would provide access to a wide variety of spices.

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