Crazy Historical Poached Eggs

Thoughts:

I didn’t have any partridge on hand for this recipe, but I did have some pheasant and chicken left over from a birthday dinner, so I decided to use that instead.

It may not look like much on the plate, but the taste of this breakfast is incomparable. On somewhat of a whim, I chose to place the dish on a slice of toast, making it a bit more breakfast-centered. This was a great way to enjoy it, but I could also see how it would be a wonderful and hearty meal dished up in a wooden bowl, too.

The rich, savory gravy with bits of shredded meat in it, is lightly but warmly spiced, giving it an old-world feel. A soft poached egg on top, the yolk of which runs into the gravy and toast, makes each bite creamy. All in all, it is a bit of an involved breakfast, but amazingly delicious and unique, and certainly worth trying at least once.

Proposed Location?

Anywhere in Westeros. All it needs is some game birds, or even chicken, so it would suit most regions. Perhaps not Dorne, but I could easily see it being served in Winterfell, the Reach, King’s Landing, and on the Wall.

Recipe for Crazy Historical Poached Eggs

To Poach Eggs. Take a dozen of new laid Eggs and flesh of four or five Partridges, or other; mince it so smal as you can season it with a few beaten Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, into a Silver Dish, with a Ladlefull or two of the Gravy of Mutton, wherein two or three Anchoves are dissolved; then set it a stewing on a fire of Char-coals; and after it is half stewed, as it boyles break in your Eggs one by one , and as you break them, pour away most part of the whites, and with one end of your Egg-shel, make a place in your dish of meat, and therein put your yolks of your Eggs round in order amongst your meat, and so let them stew till your Eggs be enough, then grate in a little Nutmeg, and the juyce of a couple of Oranges; have a care none of the seeds go in, wipe your dish and garnish your dish, with four or five whole Onyons, &c. – Compleat Cook, 1655

Cook’s Notes: I’ve somewhat adapted the recipe to better suit a modern pantry. Since most of us don’t have a pot of mutton gravy simmering away on the stovetop, I’ve included simple instructions for a chicken-based gravy made from leftovers. I’ve also omitted some of the stranger ingredients, such as onion garnish, orange juice, and anchovies, although I could certainly see the latter being a tasty addition. It made me wonder if some trace of this dish might date back to Ancient Rome, when almost all food had fish in it…

Ingredients:

~6 eggs, for poaching
1 leftover roast chicken
pinch each ground mace, nutmeg, and clove
chicken broth
4 Tbs. butter
4 Tbs. flour
salt and pepper to taste
slices of toasted bread

The Night Before:

Strip all the usable meat from the chicken carcass and lay aside. Put the bones in a large pot, cover with water, and simmer for several hours. Strain into a clean container and place in the fridge overnight.

The Next Morning:

Skim off and discard any fat that has collected at the top of the broth.
To make the gravy, melt the butter in a saucepan, and add the flour to it, stirring the two together. Let this cook for a minute or two, until it is golden and bubbling. While whisking the flour-butter, add a ladle of broth. The mixture should thicken quickly. Continue adding broth until it seems to stop thickening.

Shred the meat, and season with salt and spices. Ideally, you’ll have a couple of cups of shredded meat. Combine the meat with the gravy in a saucepan, and place over medium heat. As it starts to bubble, make a series of small divots in the broth, and carefully crack the eggs into the mixture.

Gently spoon hot gravy over the eggs, so that it cooks on top as well as underneath. The challenge in poaching an egg in gravy is that it’s not as visible as when done in water, so it may take a couple of tries before you get the hang of it. It should be finished when the white is set, and the yolk is still soft.

When the egg is done, scoop it out of the pan along with a generous portion of the meaty gravy. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then serve on top of toast, or in a bowl.

Depending on how many you are serving, you may need to bolster the gravy mixture with extra broth, in order for the liquid to be deep enough to properly poach the eggs.

Vintage Molasses Cookies

Thoughts:

This was a slightly tricky recipe, since it was only a partial list of ingredients. It comes from the family cookbook, The Way to a Man’s Heart (link forthcoming), which contains a wealth of recipes snipped from newspapers, other cookbooks, and scrawled onto cards, envelopes, and anything else that was near to hand.

With this recipe, I tested a range of sizes, shapes, and amounts of flour before deciding that the rolled and cut-out cookies were the best of the bunch. They have that familiar molasses-ginger flavor that many of us associate with the holidays, but the touch of coffee tweaks it into a different thing altogether. It’s very nice plain, but also great with a bit of simple icing for extra sweetness.

Recipe for Molasses Cookies with Coffee

Ingredients:

1 cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup molasses
2 eggs
3 Tbs. coffee
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. ginger
2 tsp. soda
4 cups flour

Cream together the butter, sugar, and molasses. Add the eggs, followed by the coffee and spices. Mix the soda, and flour, then gradually mix the dry ingredients into the wet.

Continue to gradually add flour until the dough is such a consistency that it can be rolled out to 1/4″ thickness. Cut into whatever shape you like, and arrange on baking sheets lined with parchment paper.

Bake for 10 minutes at 350F, then remove to a cooling rack.

White Leek Bruet

Thoughts:

This medieval leek recipe is flavorful and interesting.

The leeks and salt pork cook until they are so soft that they almost melt, leaving the slivered almonds to make a textural statement. Each bite transitions from the saltiness of the broth, to the soft flavors of the leeks and pork, then ends with a strong nutty, crunchy finish. I’ve made it as in the original, but if I were to make it again, I might include a sprig or two of herbs for some added nutrients and complexity. It would also be tasty paired with a nice toasted slice of dark rye bread.

Proposed Location?

I’d guess that this could be a strong contender for any of the smaller noble houses. It doesn’t rely on a wealth of fresh ingredients, but is strong and tasty. Given the inclusion of pork, I’m going to be funny and say it should be served at the Tarly residence, Horn Hill.

Recipe for White Leek Bruet

“To make white leeks, he who is in charge of them should arrange that he has his leeks and slice them small and wash them very well and put to boil. And take a good piece of salt chine of pork, and clean it very well and put it to boil therewith; and when they are well boiled take them out onto fair and clean tables, and let them save the broth in which they were boiled, and let there be a good mortar full of blanched almonds, and then take the broth in which the said leeks have boiled and draw up the almonds with it, and if there is not enough of the said broth take beef or mutton broth — and take care that it is not too salty; and then afterward put your bruet to boil in a fair and clean pot. And then take two fair and clean knives and chop your leeks, and then take them and bray them in a mortar; and, being brayed, put them into your broth, of almonds as much as water, to boil. And the leeks being boiled, when it comes to the side board put your meat on fair serving dishes and then the said broth of the said leeks put on top.” –Du Fait de Cuisine, 1420

Cook’s Notes: I’ve streamlined the original instructions somewhat below, for simplicity’s sake. I don’t think it alters the overall effect in any large degree.

Ingredients:

2 Leeks, white part only
1/4 lb. Salt pork, rinsed and sliced thinly into bite-size pieces
2 cups water
1 cup ground almonds
2 cups beef broth
Salt, to taste
1/2 cup slivered blanched almonds
1/2 cup Water

Rinse leeks and cut the white section of them into 1/4″ rounds. Put the leeks in a pot with the sliced salt pork and cover with 2 cups water.

Bring this mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking until leeks are tender and pork is cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Strain the broth into a bowl, reserving the leeks and salt pork. Pour this liquid back into the pot, along with the 2 cups beef broth and the ground almonds. Bring to a boil again. Once the leeks have cooled slightly, mash them between your fingers, or with a spoon. Add back into the broth along with the 1/2 cups water and blanched almonds, and simmer for 20 minutes. The mixture should thicken slightly from the almond flour, and be a nice rich color from the beef broth. Ladle into serving bowls, and consider serving with rye toast.

Vintage Vegan: Eggless, butterless, milkless cake

Thoughts:

With a hand-typed recipe and a name like that, how could I resist? This is the latest recipe from the very cool family cookbook, The Way to a Man’s Heart (link), and like the others, is a quirky look back in time. In my book, the recipe is typed onto a small piece of paper, and pasted onto the back cover. However, my Google-fu skills led me to a very similar recipe in Dr. Price’s New Cookbook, from 1921. That recipe calls for a good deal more baking powder, which I think would not go amiss.

On its own, this cake is not going to win any beauty contests. However, a good layer of icing serves to really spruce it up. The cake itself is also helped by the icing, because as you might expect, it’s a little on the dense side. The raisins and nuts are evenly distributed throughout the cake, giving each bite a little bit of interest and moistness.

Although it’s not going to be a a new staple in my kitchen, it’s a fun historical experiment that’s delicious with tea!

Recipe for Eggless, Butterless, Milkless Cake

Put into a sauce pan the following and boil together three minutes, then cool:

1 cup brown sugar
1 cup water
2 cups seeded raisins
1/3 cup lard or shortening
1/4 grated nutmeg
1 tsp. cinnamon

When cool, stir in

1 cup English walnuts
1 tsp. soda, dissolved in 1 Tbs. water
2 cups flour
1/2 tsp. full of baking powder

Grease a round pan and gently spread the elastic batter in it.

Bake at 300F for 45 minutes to an hour.

If you like, ice the cake with:

1/2 cup confectioners sugar
enough water to bring it together

Historical Hot Chocolate, 1631

Thoughts:

This is the most decadent hot cocoa I have ever encountered.

Made thick and creamy by the emulsified ground nuts, it pours beautifully. There is a hint of robust smoky spiciness lent by the chipotle that compliments the chocolate, giving it a warm mouth feel no matter what temperature you serve it. The spice lingers on the back of the tongue, allowing the other flavors a turn. The anise is subtle, but with a distinct small bite, and traces of the cinnamon are there also. The annato doesn’t have much flavor, but adds a wonderful rich depth of color.

This recipe was probably intended to be made with water, and possibly even served cold. I like using milk as the base, as it increases the creaminess of the drink. When it’s cold the oils from the nuts rise to the top in a very thin sheen.

*Fun Fact: drinking chocolate did not violate the terms of fasting, as dictated by the Catholic Church. Win!*

Recipe for Historical Hot Chocolate

“Take one hundred cocoa beans, two chillies, a handful of anise seed and two of vanilla (two pulverized Alexandria roses can be substituted), two drams of cinnamon, one dozen almonds and the same amount of hazelnuts, half a pound of white sugar and enough annatto to give some color. And there you have the king of chocolates.” -Curioso tratado de la naturaleza y calidad del chocolate (A Curious Treatise of the Nature and Quality of Chocolate), 1631

Cook’s Notes: Although nuts ground in a food processor can work in a pinch, I recommend using pre-ground flour, which will be a finer consistency that one can usually get at home. If you’d like it spicier, feel free to tweak the chili types/proportions to taste!

Ingredients:

1/4 cup ground cocoa, unsweetened
1 dried chili pepper (chipotle), ground or chopped fine
1 anise star
1/2 vanilla bean, or 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
2 tsp. almond flour
1 tsp. hazelnut flour
2 Tbs. sugar
1 tsp. ground annato for color
pinch of cayenne (optional)
2 cups milk

Combine all the ingredients with the milk in a medium saucepan. Heat gently for around 5 minutes, but do not bring to a boil. Strain into cups, and enjoy!

Blandissory

“Four master pyromancers conjured up beasts of living flame to tear at each other with fiery claws whilst the serving men ladled out bowls of blandissory, a mixture of beef broth and boiled wine sweetened with honey and dotted with blanched almonds and chunks of capon.” -A Storm of Swords

Thoughts:

This is a great example of how sweet and savory elements are often combined in a medieval dish. The chicken and broth, and to some extent even the wine are more commonly served as savory dishes, while cinnamon, ginger, and honey are more often associated with sweet dishes, like cookies and desserts.

This dish is quirky, and while not especially appealing in appearance, it is actually quite tasty. The almond and rice flours thicken the broth to a consistency just shy of a medium gravy. The chicken is wonderfully soft and flavorful, a great textural counterpoint to the occasioinal crunch of the almonds.

Also, while the text excerpt calls for beef broth, I found that this is a wonderful way to use a second day roast chicken. Simply pick off any remaining meat, and boil down the carcass for broth. Very economical, and in keeping with the traditional practices of not letting anything go to waste. Of course, if you’re a Lannister, you needn’t worry about such things…

All in all, a quirky dish, but not without its merits. Medieval food surprises yet again!

Recipe for Blandissory

Makes: about 2 servings Prep: 5-10 minutes

Blaundesore to potage. Take almondes and grynde hom when thai byn blounchet and tempur hom, on fysshe day wyth wyn, and on flesheday with broth of flesh, and put hit in a pot, and therto floure of rys, and let hit boyle ; then take the braune of hennes, or of capons, and bray hom, and tempur hit up with the broth of the capons, and do hit in the pot, and colour hit with saffron; and do therto gynger mynced, and powder of canel, and sugur ynogh, and serve hit forth, and florish hit with white annys. –Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)

Cook’s Notes: I used red wine because it’s what I had open, but a white wine would make for a very pretty dish, especially with the saffron to color it.

Ingredients:

1/4 cup Ground almonds
2 cups meat broth
1 cup wine
2 Tbs. rice flour
~1 cup shredded and chopped cooked chicken meat
pinch of saffron (if using white wine)
pinch ground ginger
pinch ground cinnamon
1-2 Tbs. sugar or honey
blanched almonds for garnish (~1/4 cup)

Combine ground almonds with wine/broth, and bring to a boil. Gradually add the rice flour, whisking to avoid creating clumps. Add the chicken, spices, and honey, and stir for around 2 minutes.

Pour into your serving dish, sprinkle with almonds, and serve!

Seedcake – The Hobbit

I ate two slices before I could slow down and focus on adjectives, rather than just scarfing down the tasty, tasty morsels.

The brandy and spices are there, but not in a boozy, overwhelming way. In fact, I’d say it has only the good taste of brandy, without the kick. The cake itself is soft and dense, with only the slightest hint of crunch on the outside crust, and imparted by the seeds. Although it would be good with honey or jam, I found that the seedcake itself was good enough to enjoy plain, or with a smidge of butter alongside some afternoon tea.

Recipe for Seedcake

Like most of my recipes, I based this on a traditional recipe from an old cookbook. In this case, it’s #1776, taken from Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management, 1861.

Ingredients

1/2 lb. of butter (2 sticks)
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground mace
1 Tbs seeds (caraway is traditional, but I like poppy seeds)
3 eggs
1/4 cup brandy
2 cups flour

Cream together the butter and sugar. Add the spices and seeds, followed by the eggs and brandy, beating to combine. Gradually add the flour, stirring until everything is mixed together completely. Pour this thick batter into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake it at 350F for 1 hour.

Love Knots for Tea

Thoughts:

As the cookbook says, “little cakes folded over in the form of love knots are nice for tea”, and I couldn’t agree more. The finished knots are somewhere between shortbread, sugar cookies, and cake. Delicate and doughy, they are not especially sweet on their own, but make an ideal conduit for clotted cream and jam.

I struggled a bit with the obscure directions to “lap across in a true love knot”, but after a bit of experimentation, I think I found a great method. It results in 2-3 bite little cookie-cakes that fit snugly next to a cup of tea on a saucer.

Recipe for Love Knots

Prep: 30 minutes Baking: 10-12 minutes

Makes: 3-4 dozen knots

Cook’s Note: I’ve given instructions for the knot shape I used, but feel free to innovate!

Ingredients:

1/2 tsp. baking soda
5 cups flour
2 cups sugar
1 cup butter
1/4 cup lard or shortening
2 eggs
3 Tbs. milk
grated nutmeg or cinnamon

Combine the soda, flour, and sugar, then rub in the butter and lard/shortening. When the mixture resembles small breadcrumbs, add the beaten eggs, milk, and any spices you’d like to include. You may need to tweak the proportions a bit in order to get a nice cohesive dough.

Roll the dough out on a floured surface to a thickness of about 1/4″. Slice into strips about 1″ wide and 5-6″ long. Take each of these strips, roll into an even rope about 8-10 inches long.

To arrange in the shape of a love knot, take a rope and tie it into a simple knot. Looking at the knot, you’ll see that one end seems to come out the bottom, and one out the top. Fold the top end over and under the knot, and take the bottom end and fold it up over the curve of the knot and into the hole in the center. It takes some practice, but in the end, you should have a knot with no visible ends, and five strands that all lie in the same direction. You’ll probably get better as you go, and since the dough is forgiving, you can redo some of the uglier knots. :)

Arrange the knots on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake at 35o F for 10-12 minutes, until bottoms are nice golden brown and the tops are just beginning to color. Remove to cooling rack.

Tying a Love Knot

17th C. Candied Sweet Potatoes

Thoughts:

This recipe surprised me.

I had been looking for likely candidates for fictional and historical Thanksgiving recipes, when I stumbled upon this dish in one of my cookbooks. I had my doubts about the rose water, but decided to try it anyway. It turns out that it’s not that much different from a standard candied sweet potatoes recipe. The rose and orange flavors go surprisingly well together, and with simmering, the syrup takes on a bit of the earthiness of the yams themselves.

The syrup isn’t as thick as in the more common modern version, but is still quite sweet. If anything, its a slightly more delicate and complex series of flavors than I am used to in this dish, and came together quite nicely. I still missed the lack of a spice, but that could be easily remedied. :)

Recipe for Candied Sweet Potatoes

“Boile your roots in faire water untill they bee somewhat tender then pill of the skinne, then make your syrupe, weying to every pound of roots a pound of sugar and a quarter of a pinte of faire water, & as much of rose water, & the juice of three for fowre orenges, then boile the syrupe & scum it, then cut your roots in the middle & put them into the syrup, & boile them till they bee thoughlie soaked in the syrupe, before you take it from the fire, put in a little musk and amber greece.” –Eleanor Fettiplace’s Receipt Book, 17th century

Cook’s Notes: I’ve omitted the musk and ambergris at the end of the recipe, mostly for the sake of expense and availability. I imagine, however, that they would make for a significantly different and much more fragrant dish.

Ingredients:

1 lb. sweet potatoes, cut into large chunks
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup rose water
3/4 cup orange juice

Parboil the sweet potatoes in a pot of water for about 10 minutes, or until they are just shy of tender, then drain and peel. Cut into largeish chunks; any small pieces may fall apart in the syrup.

Combine the sugar, water, rose water, and orange juice in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, and skim off any scum that rises to the top. Turn the heat down to a low simmer, then add the cut sweet potatoes. Cook slowly for another 30-45 minutes, depending on how long they were parboiled. The finished potatoes should be tender and full of sweet, syrupy flavor. If you like, you can let the potatoes sit in the syrup overnight, making this a great dish to prepare ahead of time.

Cider Cake

Thoughts:

Cider, for me, is the epitome of Autumn.

Dense, moist, and characterized by that distinctive spiced cider flavor, this cake is an easy new favorite. I initially wondered if the cake would need icing, since it calls for so few ingredients, but after tasting it, I love it as is. It’s delightfully simple, and while frosting would only add, I enjoy a simpler baked good next to my afternoon tea. If frosted, it would be pigeonholed into the dessert category, while unfrosted, it can be enjoyed equally well as breakfast, snack, dessert, or with tea. I’ve tweaked the recipe just a bit, but it is every bit as delicious as the original.

Also, one of the best parts of the recipe is the note afterward, which states that despite the recipe coming from a Young Lady, it “will make a nice cake, better than some old ladies make.”

I’m inclined to agree.

Cider Cake Recipe

Prep: 10 minutes Baking: 35-40 minutes

Makes one 9″x9″ cake

Cook’s Note: The batter is much, much thicker than what we are used to with cake recipes. Also, you may wish to trim off the edges of the cake if they are a tad too crispy.

from Dr. Chase’s Receipt Book, 1887

Ingredients:

1 cups sugar
3/4 cup butter, room temperature
1 egg
1 1/3 cup sweet (unfermented) apple cider, room temperature
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. each cinnamon and ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
4 cups flour

Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter and flour an 8″ square pan, or a 9″ round one.

Cream together the sugar, butter, and egg. Add the cider, and beat until it’s all the same consistency. Add the soda and spices, followed by the flour, which should give you an unusually thick batter. Smooth this evenly into the prepared pan.

Bake for about 40 minutes, or until a toothpick poked into the middle comes out mostly clean. Allow to cool in the pan for around 10 minutes, then turn out onto a cooling rack.

Delicious served with a little whipped cream, or vanilla or ginger ice cream.

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