“Colonial” Thanksgiving, 2016

So as you may have seen in previous years (2014, 2015), our family has started doing a “colonial” Thanksgiving celebration. I use the quotes because it’s far from strictly colonial in terms of preparation and authentic recipes, but we do try to keep things mostly historical, and then we use only candles and oil lamps once it gets dark. I also have grand ambitions to grow everything we eat. Maybe if I really get the vegetable garden sorted out next year! In the meantime, we’ll settle for locally grown.

This year, my mother is gung ho to make a stew outside over a cookfire, which I think will really take the whole thing to the next wacky level. Our house was built in 1795, but due to some remodels and a fire, doesn’t have that classic brick kitchen oven setup, or you could bet your breeches I’d be using that.

The biggest change this year is that we won’t have a turkey. I made many, many tasty turkeys during the WoW Cookbook process, so it turns out that nobody in the family is quite ready to eat any more just yet. I think there’s still some in the freezer, waiting to be made into soup. But that’s actually pretty traditional. Just take for example this account from 1748 New Hampshire:

“Our bay is full of lobsters all the summer and affordeth variety of other fish; in September we can take a hogshead of eels in a night, with small labor, and can dig them out of their beds all the winter. We have mussels … at our doors. Oysters we have none near, but we can have them brought by the Indians when we will; all the spring-time the earth sendeth forth naturally very good sallet herbs. Here are grapes, white and red, and very sweet and strong also. Strawberries, gooseberries, raspas, etc. Plums of tree sorts, with black and red, being almost as good as a damson; abundance of roses, white, red, and damask; single, but very sweet indeed… These things I thought good to let you understand, being the truth of things as near as I could experimentally take knowledge of, and that you might on our behalf give God thanks who hath dealt so favorably with us.” -William Haywood’s journal, Charlestown, NH

Or this account, from 1779 Connecticut:

“Of course we could have no roast beef. None of us have tasted beef this three years back as it all must go to the army, & too little they get, poor fellows. But, Nayquittymaw’s hunters were able to get us a fine red deer, so that we had a good haunch of venison on each table. These were balanced by huge chines of roast pork at the other ends of the tables. Then there was on one a big roast turkey & on the other a goose, & two big pigeon pasties. Then there was an abundance of good vegetables of all the old sorts & one that I do not believe you have yet seen. Uncle Simeon had imported the seed from England just before the war began & only this year was there enough for table use. It is called sellery & you eat it without cooking. It is very good and served with meats. Next year Uncle Simeon says he will be able to raise enough to give us all some. It has to be taken up, roots & all & buried in earth in the cellar through the winter & only pulling up some when you want it to use. Our mince pies were good, although we had to use dried cherries as I told you, & the meat was shoulder of venison instead of beef. The pumpkin pies, apple tarts & big Indian puddings lacked for nothing save appetite by the time we had got around to them.”

I don’t know about you, but those descriptions definitely set my mouth watering!

Here’s the current plan, which always changes at the last minute. I’ll hopefully be posting any new recipes that turn out well:

Flair

Hand washing water – (also makes the house smell nice)
Beeswax and bayberry candles
Pewter, linen, antler, and assorted other period dishware

Appetizers

Pemmican – traditional
Indian slapjacks, with acorn and cornmeal – 1796
assorted local cheeses

Main

Venison Stew – traditional, 1749
Cod in Coals – traditional

Sides

Cranberry Chutney – 1767, with some tweaks
Blueberry Chutney – ad lib, homegrown
Roasted Squash with homemade maple syrup
Cabbage, onions, and bacon

Dessert

Pumpkin Pie – 1653
Mother McCann’s Lemon Pie – pre-1891, from a family cookbook
Cider Cake – 1881
Apple Tansy – 1754
Gooseberry Hops – 1792

Drinks

Birch Wine – 1691
Elderberry Wine – 1861
Syllabubs – 1796

Sources used:

The First American Cookbook, Amelia Simmons, 1796
The Compleat Housewife: or, Accomplished Gentlewoman’s Companion by E. Smith, 1754
Vinetum Britannicum, J. Worlidge, 1691
Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management, Mrs. Beeton, 1861
The Way to a Man’s Heart, various authors, pre-1891
Dr. Chase’s Receipt Book, Dr. Chase, 1887
Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery, Karen Hess, 1749

The Verdict?

As my mother put it, “Why would anyone settle for turkey when they could do this?!” We had an absolute blast, and the extra smoky flavors from cooking over the fire put everything right over the top. From shaking up cream to make our own butter, to toting that giant cod to and from the firepit, it was a holiday to remember. My mother prepped the cod by wrapping it in cabbage leaves and clay (8 lb turned out to be a lot of fish), and baked some bread in her woodstove. The star of the day, the venison stew, was rich and hearty, with chunks of meat, sausage, and root vegetables swimming in a flavorful broth. The handwashing water was a big hit, and while the lemon pie didn’t quite set right, it was tasty enough to perfect- more on that later. We concluded the evening, as always, with dramatic readings in the livingroom, by candlelight.

The thing I love most, perhaps, about approaching a holiday like this is that it takes away so much of the pressure that can do in what should be a festive time. Nobody was worried about the turkey prep, or whether their cranberry sauce would hold up to Aunt Mabel’s scrutiny. Instead, it’s about the adventure of the cooking, and having fun together. And because we try to make the dinner with all local or homegrown ingredients, it gives us a proper appreciation for the effort that goes into growing and preparing the food. Looking back in time, it’s easy to marvel at the amount of hard work that went into keeping a family alive and fed. Here’s to all the hunters and housewives that have gotten us to where we are today!

And speaking of that, I’m thankful for the years you all have spent here at The Inn with me, and I hope you’ll join me for many more to come!

Cardamom Tea – The Throne of the Crescent Moon

“Tea. Adoulla leaned his face farther over the small bowl and inhaled deeply, needing its aromatic cure for the fatigue of life. The spicy-sweet cardamom steam enveloped him, moistening his face and his beard, and for the first time that groggy morning he felt truly alive.”

–The Throne of the Crescent Moon, by Saladin Ahmad

Thoughts:

Now, let’s start with the simple fact that I love cardamom. As soon as I heard about this beverage, I knew I had to try it.

The book is set in a quasi Middle Eastern setting, which I took as my starting point. Having lived in Turkey for a year, I know how essential tea is to everyday life. I decided to go for spiced added to a base of actual tea (rather than just an herbal/spice infusion). As I constructed the recipe, though, the realization slowly dawned that I knew this beverage I was making.

Chai.

What a wonderful example of how slightly changing the name of something defamiliarizes it enough for us to discover and wonder over it all over again. The flavor of the tea is rich and spicy, with the cardamom and ginger at the forefront.

Cardamom Tea Recipe

Making: 15 minutes

Makes 2 servings

Cook’s Notes: As with all recipes, feel free to tweak this one to suit your own tastes!

Ingredients:

2 cups water
1 cinnamon stick
1 ” fresh ginger, thinly sliced
4-6 cloves
7 cardamom pods, crushed (or 1 tbs. seeds)
1 heaping Tbs. black tea leaves
Milk
sugar or honey to taste

Combine ingredients except for milk and sugar in a saucepan, and bring to a simmer. Keep on the heat for about 5 minutes, then strain into serving cups. Add milk until it is a rich tan color, and sweeten to taste. Enjoy!

Historical Hot Chocolate, 1631

Thoughts:

This is the most decadent hot cocoa I have ever encountered.

Made thick and creamy by the emulsified ground nuts, it pours beautifully. There is a hint of robust smoky spiciness lent by the chipotle that compliments the chocolate, giving it a warm mouth feel no matter what temperature you serve it. The spice lingers on the back of the tongue, allowing the other flavors a turn. The anise is subtle, but with a distinct small bite, and traces of the cinnamon are there also. The annato doesn’t have much flavor, but adds a wonderful rich depth of color.

This recipe was probably intended to be made with water, and possibly even served cold. I like using milk as the base, as it increases the creaminess of the drink. When it’s cold the oils from the nuts rise to the top in a very thin sheen.

*Fun Fact: drinking chocolate did not violate the terms of fasting, as dictated by the Catholic Church. Win!*

Recipe for Historical Hot Chocolate

“Take one hundred cocoa beans, two chillies, a handful of anise seed and two of vanilla (two pulverized Alexandria roses can be substituted), two drams of cinnamon, one dozen almonds and the same amount of hazelnuts, half a pound of white sugar and enough annatto to give some color. And there you have the king of chocolates.” -Curioso tratado de la naturaleza y calidad del chocolate (A Curious Treatise of the Nature and Quality of Chocolate), 1631

Cook’s Notes: Although nuts ground in a food processor can work in a pinch, I recommend using pre-ground flour, which will be a finer consistency that one can usually get at home. If you’d like it spicier, feel free to tweak the chili types/proportions to taste!

Ingredients:

1/4 cup ground cocoa, unsweetened
1 dried chili pepper (chipotle), ground or chopped fine
1 anise star
1/2 vanilla bean, or 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
2 tsp. almond flour
1 tsp. hazelnut flour
2 Tbs. sugar
1 tsp. ground annato for color
pinch of cayenne (optional)
2 cups milk

Combine all the ingredients with the milk in a medium saucepan. Heat gently for around 5 minutes, but do not bring to a boil. Strain into cups, and enjoy!

Flaming Christmas Punch – A Christmas Carol, 1843

“Heaped up on the floor, to form a kind of throne, were turkeys, geese, game, poultry, brawn, great joints of meat, sucking-pigs, long wreaths of sausages, mince-pies, plum puddings, barrels of oysters, red-hot chestnuts, cherry-cheeked apples, juicy oranges, luscious pears, immense twelfth-cakes, and seething bowls of punch, that made the chamber dim with their delicious steam.”

–A Christmas Carol, by Charles Dickens, 1843

The original recipe, unaltered, delivers quite a hefty alcoholic blow. I had expected much more of the alcohol to burn off, since 3-4 minutes seems like a good amount of time, but it was very much still present. The lemon is also prominent, between the zest and the juice, and compliments the rum/brandy mixture nicely.

In the end, though, to stretch out the recipe for a party, and to help ease the taste of serious booze, I added some cinnamon sticks and apple cider to the mix. I imagine that a variety of fruit juices would work equally well, and I enjoyed this recipe enough to try some variations in the future!

Recipe for Flaming Christmas Punch

Prep Time: ~25 minutes

Makes about 6-8 servings

This recipe is from a letter penned by Charles Dickens: “Peel into a very strong common basin the rinds of three lemons, cut very thin, and with as little as possible of the white coating between the peel and the fruit, attached. Add a double-handfull [sic] of lump sugar (good measure), a pint of good old rum, and a large wine-glass full of brandy — if it not be a large claret-glass, say two. Set this on fire, by filling a warm silver spoon with the spirit, lighting the contents at a wax taper, and pouring them gently in. [L]et it burn for three or four minutes at least, stirring it from time to Time. Then extinguish it by covering the basin with a tray, which will immediately put out the flame. Then squeeze in the juice of the three lemons, and add a quart of boiling water. Stir the whole well, cover it up for five minutes, and stir again. At this crisis (having skimmed off the lemon pips with a spoon) you may taste. If not sweet enough, add sugar to your liking, but observe that it will be a little sweeter presently. Pour the whole into a jug, tie a leather or coarse cloth over the top, so as to exclude the air completely, and stand it in a hot oven ten minutes, or on a hot stove one quarter of an hour. Keep it until it comes to table in a warm place near the fire, but not too hot. If it be intended to stand three or four hours, take half the lemon-peel out, or it will acquire a bitter taste. The same punch allowed to cool by degrees, and then iced, is delicious. It requires less sugar when made for this purpose. If you wish to produce it bright, strain it into bottles through silk. These proportions and directions will, of course, apply to any quantity.”

Ingredients:

3 lemons
1 cup sugar
2 cups rum
1 cup brandy
Juice of 3 lemons
4 cups boiling water

Optional additional ingredients:

1-2 cups apple cider or other juice
2 cinnamon sticks

Using a veggie peeler, take strips of peel off the lemons, leaving off as much of the bitter white pith as possible.

Add the peels, sugar, rum, and brandy to a saucepot and warm over low heat until the sugar is dissolved. Using a long match or taper, carefully lower a flame to just above the surface of the liquid; it should catch and burn with a lovely blue flame. Allow this to burn for 3-4 minutes, then quickly and carefully place a lid on the pot to extinguish the flame.

Remove the lid and add the lemon juice and boiling water. Bring to a simmer for 15 minutes, then taste. Add more sugar if it’s to your liking, or additional ingredients until it is delicious by your standards.

Strain out any floating bits of lemon or spice, and keep warm until serving.

Ent-draught – The Lord of the Rings

“The drink was like water, indeed very like the taste of the draughts they had drunk from the Entwash near the borders of the forest, and yet there was some scent or savour in it which they could not describe; it was faint, but it reminded them of the smell of a distant wood borne from afar by a cool breeze at night. The effect of the draught began at the toes, and rose steadily through every limb, bringing refreshment and vigour as it coursed upwards, right to the tips of the hair… He poured them out two full bowls from a stone jar; but from a different jar. The taste was not the same as it had been the night before: it was earthier and richer, more sustaining and food-like, so to speak.”

–The Two Towers, by JRR Tolkien

Thoughts:

As you can see from the quote above, there are at least two different versions of Ent-Draught. I knew that I wanted the drink to be clear, like the waters of the Entwash from which the draught was made, but that’s where I ran into a snafu. To get a clear alcoholic drink, one must distill, which is quite illegal in the US. So i turned the idea on its head, and distilled an herbal infusion instead.

The first version, described as an invigorating drink, with a sense like a breeze from distant woods, what what I decided to tackle first. It gave me a bit of trouble. I though it should have some floral notes, to give a sense of meadows that the wind has traveled over, but also be light and green. It’s good, but could probably be better.

The second version was much easier to formulate. It’s described as being filling, earthy, and rich, so I imagined flavors that would be reminiscent of a damp forest floor. I started with a mixture of black teas, then added some thyme for some mossy green notes, and some heather tips for a slight hint of floral. The peat-smoked barley gives the whole thing a very subtle damp, old feel, in the best way.

The flavor of both draughts is unique, unlike anything I’ve tasted before. They have hints of familiar flavors, but presented in a wholly new way. Despite being dark tea-based brews, the finished draughts are as clear as water. I deem them to be as much of a success as a mere mortal can accomplish.

I can’t promise that it will make you grow, but these Ent-Draughts are a wonderful beverage that will remind you of cool forests and breezes through the Shire…

Ent-Draught Recipes

Prep: 10 minutes Distilling: 45 minutes plus

Makes about 1.5 cups per recipe

Light Version:

6 cups water
1/2 cup loose green or white tea leaves
1/2 sprig fresh rosemary
3 mint leaves
2 Tbs. chamomile
1 Tbs. roses
lots of ice

Earthy Ingredients:

6 cups water
4 tea bags (two earl grey, two other black/Turkish)
1 sprig thyme
1 Tbs. heather tips
1 tsp. peat-smoked barley
lots of ice (at least 6 trays worth…)

The directions are essentially the same for both versions: Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan with a lid. Warm slightly. Place a heatproof bowl in the center of the pot; make sure it is tall enough to stay above the water level. Turn the lid of the pot upside down and place it on the pot. This will enable the distilled vapors to run down the lid and collect in the bowl. Cover the lid with ice, and bring to a simmer.

The first version should be served chilled, the second at room temperature.

Serpentine’s Restorative – Neverwhere

“Richard knocked back the green liquid, which tasted of thyme and peppermint and winter’s mornings. He felt it go down and prepared himself to try to keep it from coming back up again. Instead he took a deep breath and realized, with a little surprise, that his head no longer hurt, and that he was starving.”

–Neverwhere, by Neil Gaiman

There is always a challenge in creating real world versions of food and drink that is probably mystical in origin. In this case, I wanted to include the elements in the description, namely the mint & thyme, and the green color. And then, if possible, I hoped to capture a bit of that restorative power.

Spirulina proved to be the key ingredient, as it gives the drink that Emerald-City-green, and the combination of protein, vitamins, and minerals helps restore what one’s body has lost as a result of over-indulging. The flavor is fairly pleasant, owing mostly to the mint and copious amount of honey (which helps keep the green powders in suspension).

This restorative beverage is lovely the morning after heavy drinking, but is also very effective when taken before going to bed. I personally recommend taking half warm before going to sleep, and chilling the other half for the morning after.

Recipe for Serpentine’s Restorative

Boiling: 10 minutes Cooling: 15 minutes

Makes 1-2 servings, depending on your headache

Ingredients:

2 cups boiling water
2 Green Tea bags
1 sprig each mint & thyme, crushed
1 tsp. willow bark
honey, to taste, but at least 1 tsp.
1/2 tsp. spirulina powder
1/2 tsp. wheatgrass powder (optional)

Combine the tea bags and herbs in a small saucepan with the boiling water. Simmer for around 10 minutes, then remove from heat. Strain into a bowl, and stir in the honey while the liquid is still warm. Allow to sit until it is still warm, but cool enough to touch. Stir in the spirulina, and if using, the wheatgrass. Stir until it’s completely combined, and serve. , blend, and let sit for 10 minutes. Strain, chill and serve seriously ice cold.

Pumpkin Juice – Harry Potter

Thoughts:

The color!

I perused a lot of various pumpkin juice recipes online before starting this post, but didn’t find any that really leapt out at me. The closest had apricot juice; I have never seen apricots and pumpkins ripe at the same time! So I swapped the apricot for some seasonally appropriate apple cider, and spiced to my own preference. I also did something with my pumpkin juice that I haven’t seen done elsewhere.

I let it ferment.

Not a lot, mind you, but just enough to give it a little fizz. The resulting juice is lightly sparkly, with subtle spicy ginger flavors overlaying the deeper pumpkin. Although it might seem that the juice is mostly apple cider, the pumpkin element is quite pronounced, enhanced by the cider, rather than overpowered by it.

It’s pretty awesome. :)

Pumpkin Juice Recipe

Roasting: 45 minutes Straining: 30 minutes Mixing: 10 minutes Optional fermenting: 2-4 days

Makes about 4 cups of juice

Cook’s Notes: Don’t throw away that puree once you’re done draining the juices! Use it as pumpkin pie filling, as in this 17th C. recipe.

Ingredients:

1 5 lb. sugar pumpkin
4 cups apple cider
1-2″ fresh ginger root, sliced thin
2 cinnamon sticks
pinch of cardamom

Slice the pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds and guts. Roast the pumpkin halves in the oven at 350F for at least 40 minutes, or until it is cooked all the way through, and soft.

Puree with the apple cider, skin and all, then pour, in batches, into a fine sieve suspended over a large bowl. Allow the pumpkin to drain, stirring occasionally to allow as much liquid as possible to drain out. Save the pumpkin for another recipe, such as Pumpkin Pie or Pumpkin Pasties.

Simmer with remaining ingredients until the flavors are melded, about 10 minutes. Serve warm or chilled.

If you would like a little natural fizz in your pumpkin juice, cover the bowl with a dishcloth and let sit for a couple of days. It will develop a cloudy, bubbly top, which indicates it is fermenting. Allow to ferment to taste, and serve room temperature or slightly chilled.

Fictional Beverages

I’ve got a list going of various fictional beverages. Most of these are drinks I’ll definitely try out sooner or later; I’m trying to focus mostly on books (sorry, no Romulan Ale!), and would love your suggestions, if I’ve left out any awesome drinks!

The List:

Blue Milk, from Star Wars

Islington’s Wine & Serpentine’s Restorative, from Gaiman’s Neverwhere

Wonka’s Buttercup Tea

Dickens’ Christmas Punch

Other Mother’s Hot Chocolate, from Coraline

Anne of Green Gables: Currant Wine, Raspberry Cordial

Chocolatl, from the Golden Compass

Fleegix, from Alan Mendolsohn, Boy from Mars

Harry Potter: Pumpkin Juice, Nettle Wine, Firewhiskey, Gillywater

Ent-draught, from LotR

Alice’s Potions for Growing and Shrinking

Pan Galactic Gargleblaster

Austershalin Brandy, from Gentlemen Bastards series

Klah, from the Dragonrider series

Ambrosia, from Battlestar Galactica

Grog, from Monkey Island

Blackbriar Mead from Skyrim

Fictional Brewing!

Brew-mania!

In honor of a successful move to a new apartment, and the unpacking of the kitchen, I’m set to brew again!

In addition to brewing something from Game of Thrones, I’d love to explore more boozy goodness from other fictional worlds. I’m giving this poll a full month, at the end of which I’ll make the top two reader picks, then post the recipes. Have a favorite fictional alcohol that’s not on the list? Add it!

Butterbeer – Harry Potter

Thoughts:

I’ve never really held with the idea that the Butterbeer in Harry Potter is basically some sort of cream soda. No way. To me, that’s a very American interpretation, with artificial flavoring, and so much sugar that it becomes horrible.

My approach, probably unsurprising to many of you, was to dip into the historical cookbooks for my inspiration. And lo, from the late 1500s, there’s a recipe for “Buttered Beere”. Clearly this was what I needed to try.

My first reaction to the finished historical brew was one of surprise: The smell doesn’t quite match the flavor, so the first sip is not what you’ll be expecting. It almost smells like a sweet dough, as you might make for cinnamon rolls, with that combination of yeast, butter, and eggs. However, the flavor itself is one of creamy, spiced beer, with all the residual hops and tinge of bitterness that go with it.

The mixture thickens, not quite to the density of eggnog, but in a similar way. Served warm in a large mug, and redolent with spices, it’s an interesting and unique winter holiday beverage. Although I can’t quite imagine myself craving a big mug of this beverage on a regular basis, I’d certainly slap down two sickles for a pint at the Hog’s Head Inn or the Three Broomsticks!

Adapted Historical Recipe for Butterbeer

Take three pintes of Beere, put five yolkes of Egges to it, straine them together, and set it in a pewter pot to the fyre, and put to it halfe a pound of Sugar, one penniworth of Nutmegs beaten, one penniworth of Cloves beaten, and a halfepenniworth of Ginger beaten, and when it is all in, take another pewter pot and brewe them together, and set it to the fire againe, and when it is readie to boyle, take it from the fire, and put a dish of sweet butter into it, and brewe them together out of one pot into an other. -The Good Huswifes Handmaide for the Kitchin, 1588

Cook’s Notes: For an extra indulgence, try adding a bit of cream or whole milk to the finished butterbeer. Add no more than a 1:1 ratio, and serve the adulterated version chilled, rather than hot.

Ingredients:

3 bottles of ale
1 1/2 tsp. pumpkin pie spice
1 cup brown sugar
5 egg yolks (save the whites for something like meringue)
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into chunks

Heat the ale and spices in a medium saucepan, over medium heat. If it has a lot of foam, that should die down once it starts heating up.

In a separate bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks. while whisking furiously, pour in a ladle-full of the hot ale. Whisk until it’s incorporated, then pour the whole mess back into the pot of ale, still whisking madly.

Keep the mixture just under a simmer, stirring until it thickens somewhat. Add the chunks of butter and stir until they’re melted. Whisk with a hand mixer (or a lot of arm strength), until a foam rises.

Serve hot, in heat-proof mugs.

« Previous Page