Dune – Melange Spice

This is something I’ve been playing with now for years and years, and haven’t gotten quite right to my satisfaction until now.

Frank Herbert is a little bit coy with his descriptions of melange, but overall the sense is that of cinnamon, sometimes specifically “bitter cinnamon”. In Dune, Dr. Yueh waxes poetical, saying that the flavor is “never twice the same… It’s like life—it presents a different face each time you take it. Some hold that the spice produces a learned-flavor reaction. The body, learning a thing is good for it, interprets the flavor as pleasurable—slightly euphoric. And, like life, never to be truly synthesized.”

There are accounts in Herbert’s later novels of the spice giving off a blue glow, or of the sand where a spice eruption had taken place being a deep purple color. I really like the idea of that, visually, but as it’s complicated enough to get the flavor right, let’s just focus on that for the time being.

The flavor of this mix is pretty good, I think. The cinnamon is at the forefront, but the cumin, especially in the smell, lends it a bit of unfamiliarity. It’s a warm blend, and I have the impression that it’s somehow… sandy? This is especially true with the texture of the sugar mixed in. The other spices are there as well, but more subtle and they take turns after the big cinnamon punch on the front. The sugar, added because our bodies crave sweet things, softens what is otherwise a pretty bitter mix, but that too is in keeping with some of the original descriptions. I opted for turmeric for its health benefits, and the little pinches of extra unusual spices for depth and variety. Also because I love them. More on that later…

So there you have it! I can’t promise that this blend will give you visions or turn your eyes blue, but I’m pretty jazzed to try it in all kinds of dishes, not least of all as a rub on meat, where I think it really might be awesome. My first test in normal coffee was pretty tasty, but I’m inclined to think that coffee on Arrakis would be made Turkish style, in little pots over open flame, so that’s on the list for the (near) future, as well.

Melange Spice Blend, from Arrakis

Ingredients:

1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/8 tsp. ground cumin
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
pinch of ground grains of paradise
pinch of ground mahlep (optional, see note)
1 Tbs. finely grated jaggery
pinch of edible luster powder (optional, but SO cool)

Combine all the ingredients and store in a small airtight jar.

A note on spices:

(I don’t usually link to specific products, but many people have had trouble finding these items locally, so here are a few affiliate links to point you in the right direction! I might get a sliver of profit if you buy one of these, so it helps everyone out!)

To really amp up the flavor of this, go to your pantry and throw away that ancient bottle of McCormick ground cinnamon. Then replace it with some really good stuff, and you’ll be wowed by the difference. I recommend either King Arthur’s Vietnamese Cinnamon or some Ceylon Cinnamon. I’m usually all for the savings when buying in bulk, but spices are one of those things that are best fresh, so consider getting smaller containers for better flavor. After all, when did you last buy one of those containers of old dusty cinnamon that are kicking around the pantry?

And my other super awesome recommendation, although it’s optional, is Mahlep. I’ve got some of this on order to try out, but I’ve had other brands in the past and let me tell you, it’s a secret weapon in my spice cabinet. It’s made from the pits of a particular Mediterranean cherry, and the raw flavor is subtle and hard to define, but is something adjacent to cardamom with a hint of almonds. But where it really shines is in baked goods. Add some of this to any stone fruit and it deepens and enriches the flavors.

I don’t have a specific recommendation for Jaggery, but you can find it it many specialty/international food shops. It’s a cool flavorful old-school sugar, where the molasses hasn’t been spun out. It usually comes in blocks or cones.

And lastly, Grains of Paradise. This is probably your best bet for cost, but if don’t have an easy way to grind up spices at home, this one comes in a jar with a built-in grinder. If you’ve got a couple of my cookbooks, you may have noticed that I really love this itty bitty pepper. I first discovered it while researching and cooking up medieval recipes, and it’s been a staple of my spice cabinet ever since. In fact, I have this loaded into my pepper grinder (along with cubeb and long pepper, two other old peppers). The flavor is rich and complex, with hints of citrus and something exotic and woody, while the actual feel of the pepper on the tongue can be a sort of cool burn that lingers. It’s really cool. :)

NW – Fruit Compote

I don’t know what the weather’s like where you are, but here in New England we are getting some seriously unseasonably chilly, rainy weather.

Not. A. Fan.

So naturally, I have been craving stews, pasta, and other hearty, filling dishes. In Westeros, that means looking toward recipes from the North, from Winterfell and Castle Black, which is where today’s simple recipe comes from.

This easy dish can be served either alongside a meat course or as a dessert in its own right. It makes use of ingredients commonly found in Westeros, even at the Wall: dried fruit, a few spices, and a touch of tangy vinegar. The warmth of the cinnamon and the bite of small ginger bits mixed among the fruit would be a welcome part of a meal in the frigid north, while the tender stewed fruits an infrequent treat. Consider serving with pork, beef, or lamb.

Night’s Watch Compote Recipe

Prep: 10 minutes – Cooking: 30 minutes

Makes: about 4 servings

Ingredients:

2-3 apples and/or pears
1/4 cup dried dates, diced
1/4 cup dried figs, stemmed and quartered
1/4 cup dried currants
1/2 cup golden raisins
1 heaped Tbs. diced candied ginger
1 cinnamon stick
1/2 c white wine
2 Tbs. white wine vinegar
1/2 c sugar
water to cover

Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan, and add just enough water to cover. Cook on medium low heat for about 30 minutes, or until the fruit is soft, but not mushy, and most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove the cinnamon stick, and transfer the compote to a serving dish or clean jar. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to a week. Best served warm.

Elder Scrolls – Orcrest Garlic Apple Jelly

Today’s recipe, in celebration of a (finally) fixed blog, comes from Elder Scrolls Online, which has an absolute wealth of cool looking dishes.

Although Orcrest is widely known as a thriving black market city, its other more common offerings should not be overlooked. This flavorful jelly brings together two simple ingredients in a new and delicious way. It’s not technically contraband, but it’s so uniquely good it could be…

This makes an unusual but tasty spread that is as good on toast as it is as a sort of chutney stand-in on sandwiches. Both sweet and savory at the same time, it’s a treat for your taste buds. I might try oven roasting the garlic next time, but for now, this one’s a keeper.

Orcrest Garlic Apple Jelly

Ingredients

2 lb. cored and chopped semisweet apples, such as Fuji
4 heads garlic, broken apart
4 cups water
4 cups apple cider
2 cups sugar
pinch of rosemary or sage, optional

Instructions

Simmer everything but the sugar for around 20 minutes. Strain through a sieve, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. Add the sugar, then boil for another 30 minutes or so, until the mixture is thickened. Gently pour into clean glass jars, and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.

Basil-wrapped Goat Cheese – The Hunger Games

“On the table, under a wooden bowl to protect it from hungry rats and cats alike, sits a perfect little goat cheese wrapped in basil leaves. Prim’s gift to me on reaping day. I put the cheese carefully in my pocket as I slip outside… [Later,] Gale spreads the bread slices with the soft goat cheese, carefully placing a basil leaf on each while I strip the bushes of their berries.” – The Hunger Games

Thoughts:

Historically, the very freshest cheeses, those too young to have rinds, were frequently wrapped in leaves of various sorts. The leaves themselves served to protect the interior paste from hazards of the environment (such as bugs and debris) as well as helped to retain moisture. Today, they are for the most part used for aesthetics and in some cases, such as this one, to impart subtle flavors.

There were a few challenges when making this goat cheese. First, I had pasteurized milk from the store, not the rich and creamy raw milk straight from the farm, as Prim would have used. The second issue was the addition of an acid to make the cheese curdle. I used lemon juice the first time, and although I experimented with several other options, none tasted as good to me as that lemon version. So, while vinegar or buttermilk also work, the lemon makes for the best taste. Of the three, I think Prim would have used buttermilk, since it could also come from the goat, and wouldn’t require trading for other ingredients. And while rennet is often added to even simple goat cheeses, the Everdeens are a very poor family in a very poor district. Because of that, I’ve opted for this very basic recipe that uses a minimum of ingredients.

It results in a very soft, flavorful cheese that is easy to spread, and delicious. The basil flavors, if you choose to go that route, seep into the cheese, giving it a subtle herb flavor. I enjoyed it as in the book: on fresh bread, with the basil leaves, but it’s also great with apples, on salad, and any other way you can think.

Recipe for Simple Goat Cheese

Ingredients:

1 quart goat’s milk (pasteurized is fine, but don’t use ultra-pasteurized)
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
salt to taste
several bunches of large-leafed basil

Preparation:

You’ll also need:

a sauce pot, preferably stainless steel
Thermometer
Cheesecloth
Strainer or colander
string or rubberband
round cookie or biscuit cutter

Pour the goats milk into the sauce pot. Turn on the heat, and put the thermometer into the milk. When it’s reached about 180F, turn off the heat, and pour in the lemon juice/vinegar and salt. Stir gently to combine, then let sit and cool for around 15 minutes.

While the milk is sitting, stretch the cheesecloth over the strainer, and set over another deep bowl or pot. When it’s ready, pour the milk mixture into the prepared cheesecloth, letting the liquid drain into the container below. Gather the ends of the cheesecloth together, and secure with string. Hang this bundled cheese over a bowl for at least 2 hours or overnight, until all the liquid has drained out.

At this point, your cheese is done, and you can form it into a ball or log. To wrap it in basil leaves, follow these steps:

Pick the largest basil leaves off the bunch. Arrange these inside the round cookie cutter, with their stem ends together; they should overlap somewhat. Spoon in scoops of cheese, pressing them into the round shape. Wrap the ends of the basil leaves up over the cheese, securing them with a small blob of extra cheese, if necessary.

Enjoy!

Rosehip Preserves – Farseer Trilogy

“I found the castle stirring but not yet fully awake. I ate in the kitchen as I had when a child, finding that there, as always, the bread was freshest and the porridge sweetest. Cook exclaimed to see me, one minute commenting on how much I had grown, and the next lamenting how thin and worn I looked. I surmised that before the day was out, I would be heartily sick of these observations. As traffic in the kitchen increased I fled, carrying off a thick slice of bread well buttered and laden with rose-hip preserves.”

–Royal Assassin, by Robin Hobb

I burned my tongue making this recipe.

Because I couldn’t stop licking the spoon as the mixture cooked. Seriously.

I know that some fictional recipes are quirky and fun, but not ideal for inclusion in the everyday lineup. However, this jelly is immediately going in my annual routine, and a lot of people I know are getting some for Christmas.

Rosehips are the red-orange seed pod that is left after the rose blossoms on a bush die off. Fresh, they are relatively soft and plump, although if you are lucky enough to find some that have overwintered, they will be further softened by the frosts. They have higher levels of vitamin C than oranges, and keep very well when dried. They also have a lovely, unique flavor.

Before adding the sugar, the rosehip puree has a tart earthy flavor. After the sugar, though, it becomes this slightly sweet, winey, decadent jelly that begs to be spread on fresh, buttered scones. For the photo above, I was eager to partake in the jammy goodness, which is why it’s still a big runny. I imagine this jelly would be wonderful on ice cream, scones, toast, sandwiches, cheesy crackers, pancakes, and anything else you can think of.

Definite win!

Rosehip-Wine Jelly

Soaking: Overnight Cooking: up to 1 hour

Makes ~1 cup jelly

Cook’s Notes: I opted for a jelly (rather than preserves) because my rose seeds were so tough; They would have made a terrible addition to a jam or jelly. With fresh rose hips, instead of dried, one would be able to scrape the seeds out much more easily. I’ll try that version as soon as I find some good rose hips!

Ingredients:

1 cup dried rose hips
1 cup red wine (I used a sweet red)
1 cup water
1/2 cup sugar

Soak the dried rose hips in the wine and water overnight. The next day, simmer the whole mixture in a saucepan until the hips turn soft. Strain the whole into a clean saucepan, grinding the meat of the rose hips until you’ve got only seeds left in the sieve, and all the pulp and juices are in the new pan. Place a small plate in the freezer. Add the sugar and simmer this mixture until it has thickened/reduced, and is bubbly. If you place a bit on the chilled plate, it should gel. That’s your indication that it is ready to be poured into a jar.

If you are familiar with canning procedures, you can use then to great effect with this recipe. Otherwise, eat the jelly within a couple of weeks.

Medieval Black Pepper Sauce

Poivre Noir : Black Pepper Sauce

ORIGINAL RECEIPT:

165. Poivre noir: Black Pepper Sauce. Grind ginger, round pepper and burnt toast, infuse this in vinegar (var.: and a little verjuice) and boil it. – Le Viandier de Taillevent, 14th century

This recipe makes a lovely, rich sauce that pairs well with robust red meats, such as venison, boar, and beef. The quantities of ingredients can be tweaked to make the sauce thicker or thinner to your preference, and you should also feel free to adjust the amount of pepper to taste. The tartness of the vinegar might surprise you on first taste, but after a little acclimation, we think you’ll like it as much as we do. The charred tasted of the bread combined with the bite of the pepper rounds out the flavor sensations that go with this sauce.

Ingredients

1 slice bread, toasted until black
1/3 cup verjuice, or equal parts cider vinegar and water
1 Tbs. wine vinegar
1 Tbs. ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. ground ginger

Soak the burned bread in the liquid until it has fallen apart; mash with a fork. Stir in the spices and slowly bring to a boil. For a thinner sauce, add more liquid; for a smoother version, press through a sieve.