Coraline – Button Cookies

“The other mother had followed her in. Now she stood in the center of the room, between Coraline and the mantelpiece, and looked down at Coraline with black button eyes. It was funny, Coraline thought. The other mother did not look anything at all like her own mother.” –Coraline, by Neil Gaiman

Thoughts:

Although a simple sugar cookie recipe, the somewhat sinister connection to the “Other Mother” in Coraline lends them a creepiness similar to the bright facade of the 1950s. Available in a wide array of colors, the buttons appear purely festive, while still hinting at the curious world Coraline finds on the other side of the door.

Button Cookie Recipe

Makes about 5 dozen cookies

Prep: 20 minutes Chilling: 1 hour plus Baking: 10 minutes Icing: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

1 cup butter (2 sticks), room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 eggs
2 tsp. vanilla
4 cups flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom

Icing:

3 cups powdered sugar
1 egg white
water
food coloring

Cream together the butter and sugar. Add the eggs and vanilla, and mix until thoroughly combined. Gradually add in the dry ingredients, putting in the flour a bit at a time, until the dough is all mixed. Divide dough in half, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least an hour. Preheat oven to 325 F. Roll out dough to 1/4″ thick, and cut into rounds. Using a straw or the tip of an icing bag, punch holes where the buttonholes would be. Bake for around 10 minutes, or until the edges are just turning golden. Remove the cookies from the baking sheet, and allow to cool completely, else the icing will run off. Mix the icing by beating into the powdered sugar the egg white, and just enough water to make a runny, pourable consistency- you may need to experiment a bit with this to get a great, workable batch. Tint to desired colors with food coloring. ‘To ice the cookies, place one or two cookies at a time on a long, flat knife. Hold the cookies over the bowl of icing, and spoon icing over, making sure to get the sides covered. Allow the excess icing to drip off, then transfer the cookies to a rack over paper to catch the drips. Repeat until all the cookies are covered. Let cookies dry for several hours (if you can wait!), and serve with a glass of ice cold milk.

Honeycakes

Elizabethan Honeycakes

“She still remembered the innkeep, a fat woman named Masha Heddle who chewed sourleaf night and day and seemed to have an endless supply of smiles and sweet cakes for the children. The sweet cakes had been soaked with honey, rich and heavy on the tongue…” -A Game of Thrones

Modern Honey-ginger cakes

Our Thoughts:

We had initially intended to make two versions of this dessert, but after some trouble tracking down a suitable old one, and after tasting the modern version, we couldn’t wait to share.

While the Elizabethan version is very light, fluffy, and ohsotasty, it is more of a bun than a cake. As such, it didn’t respond well to my initial attempts to soak it in honey. It would accept a honey glaze once it had cooled down, but still lacked that really over the top sweet honey kick. So I went a step further, and filled them with honey. YES.

The modern cakes are also wonderful. They make these dense, doughy little cakes bursting with honey flavor and the subtlest of spices. We finished ours with lavender icing, and can’t imagine a better pairing. We thought they couldn’t get any better until we tried soaking a few in about 1/4″ of honey overnight. Result? Sheer decadence. The honey hits the tongue, the lavender hits the palate, and the whole thing is amazing. Our batch lasted about 5 whole minutes…

If anyone has a solid recipe for an older honeycake, we’d love to see it. In the meantime, we’ll be in the kitchen, eating these cakes until we run out, or can’t fit through the door.

Elizabethan Honeycake Recipe

Elizabethan Almond Cakes- Take one peck of flower, one pound of sugar, one pound of almons, beaten & strained with as much ale as will stiffen your paste, put theirto three spoonfulls of barme, & a few annisseds, then woork it well together, then make it in little cakes, prick them thick for rising & bake them. Elinor Fettiplace’s Receipt Book, 1604

Makes about 12 buns

Prep: 10 minutes Rising: 1.5 hour, minimum Baking: 15 minutes

Our changes: No aniseseeds, don’t like ’em. You are more than welcome to include them if you do, however. We basically used the original recipe, but added honey to the batter, as well as soaking the cakes in honey for a while.

Ingredients:

up to 3 1/2 cups flour
3 Tbs. honey
2 tsp. sugar
3 Tbs. ground almonds
1 packet yeast, or 2 1/4 tsp.
1/2 pint ale (1 bottle)
pinch of salt
honey for soaking, probably around 1/2 cup at least

Dissolve the yeast in the warmed ale, and leave to froth up. Grind the almonds and sugar in a food processor, then combine with the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a small well in the mixture, and pour in the yeasty ale. Adding the flour a bit at a time, work everything all together until it is a nice smooth, pliable consistency leave in a warm place until it has doubled in size. After it has risen, knock it down and knead it for a few minutes before shaping it into around 10 small buns.

Allow the buns to rise again for at least 15 minutes, then bake in a preheated oven for 10-20 minutes at 375 degrees F. The buns should be just slightly golden.

Using a small paring knife, cut a small hole (about 1/2″) in the tops of the buns, poking well down into the cake, but taking care to not poke all the way through. Take a small spoon and carefully fill each hole with honey. You may need to do this several times as the honey soaks into the cake. Put in at least 1 Tbs. honey per cake.

Modern Honeycake Recipe

Makes: never enough

Prep: 15 minutes Bake: ~30 minutes

Ingredients:

2 1/2 cups cake flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
1 egg
1 cup honey
1 cup buttermilk

Sift together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, cream together the butter and sugar. Add egg and beat thoroughly, followed by the honey. Add the flour mixture and the buttermilk in alternating turns, starting and ending with the dry ingredients. Pour into paper lined cupcake tins, or a greased muffin pan, filling each cup 2/3 full. Bake at 350F for 30 minutes or until the cakes are a golden brown.

Martha Stewart’s lavender icing recipe: http://www.marthastewart.com/340910/lavender-icing

It's Here!

A Feast of Ice and Fire, the Official Game of Thrones cookbook, comes creeping to your doorstep by mail and hits shelves today in bookstores around the world.

Go get ’em!

Then come back and tell us what you’re most looking forward to cooking or eating. Or better yet, call out of work, and spend the day eating. It’s a very Tyrion thing to do.

Also, if you send us photos of the book in your local bookstore (with the location), we’ll add it to the gallery in this post.

Huzzah!

Mushroom Straws

Mushroom. Puff Pastry. Parmesan. Balsamic.

Rich, savory, and delicious, these mushroom straws are an easy snack for parties. Guests will marvel at their deliciousness, never suspecting how simple they were to make. I, for one, ate about half a batch on my own throughout the course of the day. Normally, I would be embarrassed to admit such, but I think you will agree, once you’ve tasted one, that they’re difficult to stop eating.

Puff pastry, in my opinion, is always a win.

But go on to fill it with this savory puree, and it becomes even better. The balsamic, while not quite robust enough to feature in the flavor, helps to round out the woodsy flavor of the mushrooms. The saltiness of the Parm stands out without overpowering the other components, and the pinch of pepper gives just a hint of a bite.

Truly, try these out the next time you’re expecting guests, and watch how quickly they go!

Mushroom Straws Recipe

Prep: 5 minutes Baking: 15 minutes

Makes about 40 short straws

Ingredients:

1 box puff pastry (17.3 oz.)
1 shallot
3 Tbs. butter
2 oz. mushrooms
2 tsp. Balsamic vinegar
3 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
1 egg, beaten, for wash
poppy seeds (optional)

Thaw the puff pastry.

In a pan over medium heat, saute the shallot in butter until it’s soft. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, for a few minutes until the mushrooms are also soft. Remove from heat, and puree the shallots and mushrooms, along with all the butter, and the balsamic, in a food processor.

Preheat the oven to 400F, and line a couple of baking sheets with parchment paper. Spread out your thawed puff pastry. If it is one sheet, cut into even halves. Gently spread the mushroom filling over the whole bottom sheet of pastry, making sure to go straight to the edges. Lay the top half of the pastry over this.

Brush the top of the pastry with a beaten egg, and sprinkle with a few poppy seeds. With a sharp knife, or a pizza cutter, slice the filled dough into strips about 1/2″ wide. Place the strips on the prepared baking sheets, twisting some, if you like, for visual diversity.

Bake the mushroom straws for about 15 minutes, or until they are a rich golden brown. Allow them to cool for a few minutes before serving.

Cod Cakes

Roman Cod Cakes

“The wedding guests gorged on cod cakes and winter squash, hills of neeps and great round wheels of cheese, on smoking slabs of mutton and beef ribs charred almost black…” -A Dance with Dragons

Modern Cod Cakes

Our Thoughts:

The Roman cod cakes are quirkier than what we’re used to when we think of fish cakes, but they’re also quite good. The cod is a nice, mild white fish, which lets the other flavors and textures have a turn in the spotlight. The cilantro is not overpowering, and the wine imparts a subtle sweet flavor. The leeks give an overall crunchiness, while the occasional caper provides a pop of vinegar. We weren’t great fans of the sauce, however; It’s a little too peculiar a pairing for our taste!

The modern cakes were excellent. Just a little crispy on the outside, but with a moist cod-potato filling on the inside. A little salt and a dash of lemon complete the meal, and they’re equally good right out of the frying pan as they are straight from the fridge.

Winner? I’m really not sure. The modern cakes win for general likeability, but the Roman cakes are unique and special. My personal ideal might be a combination of the two, with turnips swapped in for the spuds, and the sauteed leeks added in.

Historical Cod Cakes Recipe

Minutal marinum: pisces in caccabum, adicies liquamen, oleum, uinum, cocturam. porros capitatos, coriandrum minutatim concides, isiciola de pisce minuta facies et pulpas piscis cocti concerpis, urticas marinas bene lotas mittes. haec omnia cum cocta fuerint, teres piper, ligusticum, origanum, fricabis. liquamen suffundes, ius de suo sibi, exinanies in caccabum. cum ferbuerit, tractam confringes. obligas. cum ferbuerit, agitas. piper aspargis et inferes. [Place the fish in a saucepan, add broth, oil, and wine. Also finely chop leek heads and coriander. Form it into small cakes, adding capers and well-cleaned sea nettles. These fish cakes cook in a liquor of pepper, lovage, and crushed oregano, diluted with broth and the above fish liquor. Skim well, bind, stir over the cakes, sprinkle with pepper and serve.] – Apicius, 4th Century

Cook’s Notes: Sea Nettle is a jellyfish. Although there were a few washed up on the beach when I went to photograph the dish, I left out it out for simplicity’s sake. I also opted for the more traditional route of frying the cakes, as they fell apart completely when I tried to cook them strictly according to the recipe.

Ingredients:

1/2 lb. cod, cut into large chunks.
1/2 cup broth
1 Tbs. olive oil
1/2 cup wine (I used a semi-sweet red)
1 leek, diced
1-2 Tbs. fresh cilantro, diced
2 Tbs. capers
2 eggs
1/2 – 1 cup breadcrumbs
olive oil for frying

For sauce:

pinch of pepper
1 tsp. lovage root
1 tsp. oregano
remaining broth, from above
roux (1 Tbs. oil, 1 Tbs. flour)

Poach the cod in the broth until it is flaky, around 5 minutes. Fish out the cod, place in a bowl, and crumble. Add the leek, cilantro, and capers, then the eggs and 1/2 cup breadcrumbs. Mix this thoroughly by hand, and try to make a few patties with them. Add more breadcrumbs as needed.

Once you have a consistency that will work, form the mixture into cakes and fry in oil over medium heat. The cakes should be golden brown, and just a tad crispy. Place on a plate covered with paper towel to drain.

To the poaching broth, add lovage, oregano, and pepper. Simmer until this sauce has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Strain, then thicken with a roux.

Serve cod cakes while still warm, with sauce on the side, or drizzled over.

Modern Cod Cakes Recipe

Cook’s note: This recipe is “modern” because of the inclusion of potatoes, a decidedly non-Westerosi ingredient.

Ingredients:

1 lb of cod fillets
2 medium-sized russett potatoes
1 cup bread crumbs
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Grapeseed oil, or other high smoke point oil such as canola oil, for frying

Boil and mash the potatoes, set them aside. Boil the codfish until it flakes easily. Drain and flake the fish with a fork. Be sure to remove all bones. Mix the flaked fish, the potatoes and the rest of the ingredients together well by hand. If the mixture is too crumbly, add another egg. If too sticky, add some more bread crumbs. Form the mixture into cakes and fry them on medium high heat in a skillet coated with oil, until nice browned on one side, then flip them over and continue to cook until well browned on the other side. Yield: Makes 12 fish cakes. Serves 4-6.

Hotel McAlpin Cream Puffs

This recipe requires a small amount of back story, but will be well worth it, I promise you!

In the old family cookbook –For the full story on the book, go here— amidst other random bits of papers and miscellany, I found this envelope, marked with a crest. Naturally curious, I followed the paper trail, and discovered not only what might be the only surviving copy of the hotel’s Cream Puffs, but also fascinating details about the hotel and dessert.

The Hotel McAlpin was built in 1912 on the corner of 34th and Broadway in Manhattan. At the time it opened, it was the largest hotel in the world, had a veritable fleet of staff that numbered more than half the total guests, and even boasted a Turkish Bath on the top floor.

Hotel McAlpin,1914

In the 1950s the hotel was lumped into the Sheraton hotel conglomerate, and in the 70s was converted to rentals. Today, sadly, it is full of condos, but in its prime was one of the striking hotels in NYC, housing guests during both World Wars and the 1939 World’s Fair.

The hotel was also famous for its Marine Grill, whose walls and ceiling were lined with custom tile mosaics depicting scenes from New York Harbor, designed by Fred Dana Marsh. Just barely saved when the hotel was renovated in the 80s, the tiles are now reconstructed in the Fulton/Broadway/Nassau subway stop. The original tiles are visible in this postcard:

Of especial interest here, though, is what was served in said restaurant, including the hotel’s recipe for Cream Puffs. Written on a sliced-open envelope of hotel stationary, the recipe is loosely scrawled in pencil. Presumably, one of my more enterprising ancestors wheedled the recipe out of the hotel chef.

As if it couldn’t get any cooler, I am keenly hoping that this cream puff recipe can be traced back to the period between the 1920s and the 1950s, when Champion Cream Puff Maker Forrest Glen worked there. As you can see from this photo, at over 7′ tall, Chef Glen was also rather tall.

Forrest Glen, Hotel McAlpin’s Champion Cream Puff Maker
photo taken 1925

Based on this reconstructed recipe, the man was indeed a Champion. A giant, if you will, among dessert designers, and a connoisseur of cream filling. Behold, his delicious Cream Puffs:

Thoughts:

Perhaps the best part about this recipe is that it is so easy to make; in well under an hour, you can have a platter filled with these decadent Creme Puffs. The pâte à choux is straightforward process from beginning to end, resulting in tender, hollow little globes of pastry that are the ideal vessel for the filling.

Very light, but sublimely rich, the filling is the star of this dessert. The smell of vanilla curls up from the mixing bowl, enticing one to dip a finger and taste. The secret knowledge of the decadent creme lying in wait within the pastry is a promise more than fulfilled with the first bite. The pastry gives way with little resistance as the filling shifts, always seeming to overflow its bounds in the least expected direction.

A shockingly simple recipe, with stellar results, this one has made it to my permanent cookbook.

Hotel McAlpin Cream Puff Recipe

Makes about 18 Cream Puffs

Prep: 15 minutes Baking: 20 minutes Filling: 10 minutes

Ingredients:

1/2 cup butter
1 cup boiling water
1 cup flour
4 eggs

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and preheat oven to 400F.

Melt butter in boiling water on stove. Add cup of flour, stirring vigorously until the mixture has become a sort of thick paste. Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer (or a regular kitchen bowl, for use with hand mixer). Break the eggs one at a time into the dough while mixing, making sure each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next. The final batter should be smooth.

Transfer the batter into a pastry bag or a ziploc with one corner cut off. Pipe the batter onto the parchment paper, making large blobs about the size of golf balls, set at least 1 1/2″ apart. You should get about 18 puffs total.

Bake the puffs for about 20 minutes, or until they are a rich golden color.

French Cream Filling:

1 cup whipping cream
4 Tbs. milk
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1 egg white
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract

Mix heavy cream with the milk and beat until stiff. In a separate bowl, beat the egg white until it too is stiff. Add the sugar and vanilla to the beaten egg white, beat for a few more seconds to mix. Fold the stiff egg mixture into the whipped cream. Immediately transfer to a piping bag, or set to chill in the fridge.

When the pastry puffs have cooled, the cream can be piped into them. Give each puff a good squeeze of the filling, but make sure you have enough to go around. You may also split the puffs and simply spoon the filling in, but I found that this made for messier eating, with more places for the filling to go. If you like, drizzle with a little chocolate.

The finished Cream Puffs should be enjoyed shortly after making them, but can be chilled for a few hours.

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Candied Ginger

Historical Candied Ginger

“’There is a gift for the boy in one of the chests. Some candied ginger. He was always fond of it.’ Illyrio sounded oddly sad.” -A Dance with Dragons

Modern Candied Ginger

Thoughts:

Rustic, simple, and quite sweet, the historical candied ginger is as wonderful straight as it is added to tea. The texture appears to be quite hard, but dissolves and crumbles nicely in the mouth. Despite the relatively small amount of ginger, the finished Georgian candies have a wonderful zip to them, without the same overpowering ginger as actual slices.

Quite their opposite, the modern recipe produces candied ginger that will set one’s mouth on fire. They are the more easily recognizable candied ginger that one can find in many stores, but I’ve never encountered any with this much bite.

Personally, I preferred the more mild gingeriness of the older recipe, although true ginger fans will love the modern.

Georgian Candied Ginger Recipe

Beat two pounds of fine loaf sugar, put one pound in a tossing pan with as much water as will dissolve it, with one ounce of race ginger grated fine. Stir them well together over a very slow fire till the sugar begins to boil, then stir in the other pound and keep stirring it till it grows thick, Then take it off the fire and drop it in cakes upon earthen dishes. Set them in a warm place to dry and they will look white and be very hard and brittle. -The Experienced English Housekeeper, 1769

Cook’s Note: I’ve halved the original recipe. It will still make a large batch of candies, approximately 30-40 candy discs.

Ingredients:

1 lb. sugar
water, about 1/4 cup
1/2 oz. grated ginger

Boil half the sugar in just a splash of water, with the grated ginger. When it comes to a boil, add the other half of the sugar. Stir until the whole mixture thickens. You may need to add the whole 1/4 cup of water to maintain a smooth, spoonable texture.

After about 3-4 minutes, remove from heat, and spoon the mixture into small rounds on your prepared baking sheet.

Modern Candied Ginger Recipe

Ingredients:

a large fresh ginger root, about 5″ long
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup granulated sugar, plus 1/2 cup more for dusting

Spray a cooling rack with nonstick spray and set it in a half sheet pan lined with parchment. Peel the ginger root and slice into rounds about 1/8″ thick. Put these and the water into a saucepan, and cook over medium-high heat for around 20-30 minutes, or until the ginger is tender. Keep an eye on the water level. To this same pan, add the sugar, turn the heat down to medium, and continue to cook. After about 5 minutes, turn off the heat. Fish out the ginger slices, allowing the excess syrup to drip off. Toss these with fresh sugar until they are coated, and place on the cooling rack to harden. Once completely cool, store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Save the syrup, as it is a wonderful addition to cocktails and tea.

Chocolate Carrageen Pudding

Plants that welcome the stranger,
Sea-swept and driven astern,
Beloved by the wide-world ranger—
Seaweed, tussock, and fern.

-Henry Lawson, 1910

Chocolate Carrageen Pudding

Our Thoughts:

Carrageen, or carraigín, is a wonderful foraged seaweed from the coasts of Ireland. Historically, it has been used as a binding agent in foods, as well as a clarifying agent in brewing. We order ours direct from foragers in Ireland, although it is available in most bulk herb sections, and in many home brewing stores.

The custard itself is interestingly savory, while still clearly a dessert. The carrageen adds a slight, unoffensive sea flavor that’s hard to place if one doesn’t know the secret ingredient. For those that enjoy a sweeter dessert, the sugar content can be increased, and other flavorings can be added as well.

Carrageen pudding has made more than one appearance at the dinner table in our house, equally suited to dinners for Game of Thrones and Downton Abbey. A relatively quick and easy set pudding to make, it’s an winner in our books.

Why it should be in the Next Book:

This pudding is a perfect dessert for GRRM to include in the next books. It’s use of seaweed as a binding agent, and just a bit of decadent cocoa powder for flavor makes it an ideal course to be served on the Fingers. We imagine Littlefinger enjoying a bite of it, having funded the import of the exotic flavorings, but still unable to shake his seaweedy origins. :)

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Sausages and Pears in Oil – The Lies of Locke Lamora

“You two have just volunteered to cook dinner. Pears and sausage in oil, and a double portion for your new little brother…”

-The Lies of Locke Lamora, by Scott Lynch

Thoughts:

The Lies of Locke Lamora bursts with lavish settings, appealing to the senses with descriptions of the sights and smells of bustling Camorr. Set in a fantastic world of alchemy and clockwork, it also contains accounts of glorious, glorious food. This dish is one of four in a given meal when young Locke is first welcomed into the fold by the Gentlemen Bastards.

This is a tasty, if unexpected, pairing. The pears pick up the spiciness of the sausage, holding a slight crisp bite in their skins. The sausages, on their own, are delicious. However, when taken with a bite of the pear, the textures and flavors complement one another very nicely. The addition of balsamic tones down the oil somewhat, and rounds out all of the flavors brilliantly.

I recommend it as an Autumnal dish, as the spices and roasting will warm both you and your kitchen.

Stay tuned for the other elements of this same meal: black bean salad in mustard-wine sauce, fried chicken dumplings in gingery orange sauce, and red peppers stuffed with almond paste and spinach.

Recipe for Sausages and Pears in Oil

Serves 4

Prep: 15 minutes Cooking: 15 minutes

Cook’s Notes: As I sadly don’t have an alchemical hearthstone, I’ve had to make do. As a result, the sausages and pears are first seared in oil, then roasted in the oven to finish them off.

Ingredients

6 spicy pre-cooked sausages (chorizo, linguica, or hot Italian are all good choices), split in half lengthwise
4 firm pears, quartered and cored
1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for serving
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, plus more for serving

Drizzle grill pan with 2 Tbs. olive oil. Sear the sausages and pears in for about 30 seconds each side. Lay the sausages in a pan, add the pears on top, and drizzle with the oil and balsamic vinegar.

Roast in the oven at 450 for about 15 minutes.

For an elegant presentation, spread an even, thin layer of olive oil on the plates. Onto this, carefully let fall droplets of balsamic vinegar until the plate is decorated. Arrange the sausage and pears to your liking, and serve.

Direwolf Biscuits

This post is dedicated to Tundra, Olga, and Apollo. :)

Our direwolf’s thoughts:

The kitchen can be torture for a pet with a culinary inclined owner. I know my own direwolf sits proper for the entire time I’m cooking, in hopes of receiving scraps. We’ve concocted these biscuits so you don’t have to feel guilty looking into those big brown eyes every time you pick up your chef’s knife. Simply toss one of these down to your most loyal friend.

I wanted to make a treat that had no fillers, no grains, and could be easily made in a standard stocked kitchen. There are no crazy ingredients, and nothing bad for your dog. When developing this recipe, I did a series of scientific experiments along the way to ensure that the dogs thought it was as yummy as it looked to me. When they licked my hands clean of the raw mixture, I knew it was ready for the oven.

End result – all three dogs these biscuits were tested on loved them. Everyone was sitting pretty, politely asking for another round after the initial taste test.

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